Tips & Tails of Buses in Belize

In the ten months I spent in Belize so far, I've had plenty an opportunity to ride the buses that generally quite efficiently transport me across this small nation. With each ride I see new people, familiar faces, overhear and engage in conversations in Spanish, English and Kriol, watch babies stare at me with big, still eyes or bright, beautiful smiles, listen to songs play from the speakers overhead or the cell phones throughout the bus, and watch from the windows as we pass by the beautiful mountains, forests and rivers. I board the bus from various stations, Belmopan certainly being the worst. At this terminal the building is contained and there are gates that lead out to the bus "yard". People wait near the gates and when the bus arrives chaos ensues: its like all the people trying to commute are at that moment making a jail break. People press into other people; those at front are pressed into the gate sometimes until the Bus Terminal staff opens it to release a flood of anxious terminal prisoners. Really, we're all just trying to get on the bus first and therefore have a seat to sit on; but the behavior is absurd and amusing, going so far as throwing punches, knocking old ladies out of the way, pushing, shoving, sending their children ahead of the crowd to weave their way between legs, under arms and ahead of the crowd... generally speaking we all begin acting desperate and determined.

When at the Dangriga bus terminal recently I was heading south on James Bus Line I was the first in line for once in my life. I quickly scooted to a desirable seat and began to set my items in the overhead rack. Now lets talk about seat desirability . I've boarded nearly empty buses before and have spent several moments and a few seat changes in deciding which seat is best for the ride. The first most desirable quality is leg room; you'll never have much but on some buses I swear they've compressed some seats and not others, or there is always the wheel hub which is best avoided unless you look forward to peeling your knees away from your chess with assistance from others in order to extract yourself upon reaching your destination. If time permits I suggest a general perusal of seat and space options.

Speaking of leg room, I once boarded a bus that had a seat missing in front of the emergency exit row. An entire seat was missing! You can only imagine my excitement when I saw this plethora of potential personal leg room but there was an issue. I was on this particular bus traveling with Eric, crossing the border back from Chetumal in Mexico into Belize. A German couple were occupying the seats as we left the Chetumal station and when we crossed the border everyone de-boarded as necessary to deal with customs. Eric and I reached back to the bus in no time, me being the proficient traveler (on this particular border) at this point and so not a tourist. The seat of envy  was empty and calling my name with a screaming passion. We were meant to be in that seat! And so I sat. As soon as my bum hit that depleted seat cushion I knew I was doing something terribly wrong. To steal someone's seat, especially at border crossings, especially a seat of such desirability, is a serious transgression in this part of the world at least. The German couple got back on the bus. My ears felt hot. They sat behind us, mumbling to each other in German as they settled their bags and such. But it turns out the female half of this traveling duo had some fire in her and was not going to stand for this. Eric and I were called out and asked to move. I was mildly embarrassed but said something lame and eventually moved to a seat further back in the bus. From our new location my knees were crammed and my head was angry, filling with mean thoughts towards this person. We'd been traveling all day, I was sick with a fever at the time, and we beat them back to the bus. Shouldn't these factors make me eligible and entitled to that seat? No. Apparently not. Throughout Eric's stay and the rest of our travels we managed to see this German couple everywhere. He took the liberties to hail them (her at least) "Hey Germany!" while I kept my head high and eyes averted, not wishing to see them again. A few days later however, we made it on a full water taxi leaving Caye Caulker and they didn't. So ha! (And in the meantime I've matured drastically and would happily plead my case in the future to anyone holding that seat so that they could see I am clearly in need of being there. I'm sure it would be a convincing appeal. That or I'll just abide by the bus norms.)

Anyway, coming back to seat choices after that long tangent, the seat you choose also needs to be carefully inspected for a cushion. If there isn't one, don't sit there. If it is there but with a half foot gap between where your bum should be and the seat back, don't sit there either. Your butt will surely slip down and wedge itself therefore leaving you crunched up in a most uncomfortable and perhaps embarrassing position.

So I boarded this bus leaving Dangriga, found a seat appealing to my criteria and sat down casually after putting my things in the rack. Immediately! A Creole man sat next to me practically pinning me against the window. I couldn't believe how close he was sitting to me! Perhaps he was excited to see a pretty white girl sitting all alone but if you want to talk, then talk. Don't try to sit on my lap now! I mean, really! We haven't even officially been introduced. I had just ridden a bus the day before, up against a lady at least a 100 pounds heavier than I and yet we still managed to have at least 6 inches between us. These 6 inches are a precious commodity. Its personal space! A very valuable thing not to be taken for granted. The bus had about 5 minutes before take off and my mind was racing, conjuring up an exit plan. This man was nearly on top of me. He had turrets or something and was twitching wildly, he smelled of stale cigarettes and booze and I just couldn't handle it. I politely said "[ex] ' Scuse" and got off the bus to buy a drink. Nevermind that I had water and wasn't even thirsty. I happily went to spend two dollars to buy a Fresca as an escape from that situation. When I got back on the bus I sat down next to the same man who had then appropriately taken the window. When my butt was once again situated I was happy to eyeball the 6 inches or more that we then had between us. My relief was immense.

This act of "pin the white girl against the window" has happened to me in the past and therefore I'm extending to you this piece of advice, readers and current or future bus travelers of Belize. If you are sitting solo in one seat, choose to sit in the middle or else on the edge. If its a packed up bus, you must choose without haste. Would you rather have the window to gaze out of and lean against and perhaps be pressed into it by a man excited to sit next to you or a large woman with two kids on her lap (and therefore on your lap too)?? OR would you rather have an aisle seat where your freedom of movement is more certain (though not guaranteed), where you can ease to the edge leaving your butt without much space but with more personal space from others???  Please note however that if you have an aisle seat you are more likely to have the conductor, or a plethora of other standing passengers press their booties up against your shoulders, head, arms, etc. when moving about in the magical game of musical chairs that we play on a continual commuting basis. Unfortunately however, this version of the game has way fewer seats than players and no one gets kicked off unless they are unable to pay or they begin to act violent, drunk or destructive in some way. Choose wisely my friends. Buen Viaje!